After taking on at Nahm following David Thompson’s departure, he started Samrub Samrub Thai, an impossible-to-book chef’s desk behind an unassuming garage in Charoenkrung. His playful 12-course degustation menu has cryptically named dishes like Daft Punk is Playing at my Mouth and Looking at Tom Yum Prawn from Far Away. The 20-course menus reinterpret native…